The secret to superior fried oysters: Listen closely
My favorite local seafood restaurant is only open Thursday through Saturday these days, so I needed to learn to make fabulous fried oysters, better than my usual. Here is what I learned.
By Ann Maloney
Crisp on the outside and custardy on the inside is the goal for fried oysters, and in her cookbook “Mosquito Supper Club,” restaurateur Melissa M. Martin describes how you should use your senses rather than a timer when deciding if the bivalves are done. She writes: “The oysters will make a lot of noise at first and then calm down — keep your face and appendages away from the pot as the oysters talk. Listen for the moment when they quiet down; that’s when they are done.” Read the article HERE.
[This is my version of oysters for an oyster po’boy. I line the French or Italian bread rolls with mayonnaise, shredded lettuce, thinly sliced tomato, and then the oysters. I squeeze some lemon over the seafood, sprinkle chopped green onion on top and chow down. I drink my mint tea with it, and I couldn’t be better.)
Ingredients
- Canola or vegetable oil, for frying (not olive oil but you can use another oil with a high smoke point like corn, avocado or sesame seed)
- 1 cup fine-ground cornmeal (not self-rising; I use Indian Head in spite of the name or Dixie Lily)
- 1/2 cup cornstarch
- sea salt to taste
- freshly ground black pepper maybe 10-12 twists of the pepper mill
- 1 pint shucked oysters, well-drained
- cajun seasoning or cayenne pepper, optional
FOR SERVING
- Mayonnaise or remoulade sauce
- Lettuce and tomatoes
- Thinly sliced green onion
- Lemon
- Hot sauce, optional but really required
First, heat your oil in a pan or pot that is deep enough that you won’t have to use too much oil, but large enough to have surface area for more than 2 or 3 oysters. I use an 8 inch cast iron skillet because I am cooking for myself. I could use a six inch skillet but I don’t want to do this all day.
Now, mix the cornmeal, cornstarch, salt, and pepper. Use yellow or white cornmeal, not blue. If your cornmeal is not finely ground, put it in the blender and give it a few pulses before using it. I use a sheet of parchment paper, but you could use a small bowl or a zippy plastic bag. If you like your oysters really spicy, add a dash or two of cayenne pepper or cajun seasoning to the dry mix. Add the oysters and make sure all of them are covered with the cornmeal mixture.
Slide the oysters into the hot oil. How do you know if it is hot enough? Drop a few grains of the dry mix into the oil. If it sputters and rises to the top immediately, you’re good to go. If you have a fancy thermometer, aim for 375F. Don’t get your oil too hot, though, because you want oysters, not ball bearings.
Cook for a few minutes, just a few, until the oysters stop sputtering and are a light golden brown. Use a slotted spoon or whatever you have to take them out of the hot oil and place them on a paper towel-lined plate. This shouldn’t take more than 2-3 minutes or so – if your oil is at the right temp – so have your paper towel-lined plate ready BEFORE you start frying.
Drain for a few minutes while you prepare the sandwich. Load the oysters into the prepared roll, and enjoy.
My Favorite Iced Tea
Take plain black tea bags, 2 per 8 ounces of planned tea. Add 1.25 cups of water to your pot per serving. I usually make 4 servings worth, like a quart. Put in the tea bags. Add a sliced lime and sweetener to taste. Add fresh mint, a lot, from your garden if you have it. Heat until the water boils. Take off heat, cover, and let sit. Let sit for perhaps 20 minutes while you are cooking. Serve over ice.